UMCA Technical Leaflet

INSTRUCTIONS FOR ROLLING TEXTILES

Rolled textile storage can be an effective, space-saving method of storing large quantities of flat textiles. The principle of rolling the textile onto a rigid tube, inserting a dowel through the tube, and suspending the dowel horizontally in a bracket system can be employed on textiles ranging from enormous tapestries to tiny handkerchiefs or even yards of narrow ribbon.  Some restrictions for rolled textile storage are that the textile be reasonable flat, uncontoured and in fairly good condition.  Very delicate, brittle or damaged materials should only be stored flat where they receive maximum support.  Extremely thin, flimsy materials may also prove problematic to roll, as they may bunch up and become creased.

Acid-free tubes are the best choice for rolled storage. They come in many different diameters and lengths.  It is possible to use common acidic cardboard tubes such as paper towel tubes, toilet paper tubes, carpet tubes, etc.  However, they must first be covered with a material which will prevent acid migration.  Details are given below.

There are several methods of suspending the tubes horizontally.  In all methods, a dowel is inserted through the hollow tube, and it is the dowel that is suspended. The best and most versatile types of rolled storage are variations of bracket systems within closed storage.  Large (baked powdered polymer on steel) cabinets can be purchased that have sloped tiers and rows of bracket supports within them.  Metal dowels are simply inserted through the textile tubes and placed into the brackets.  Large cabinets are also available that open to reveal a set of drawers.  The drawers open in turn to reveal row upon row of bracket supports, sometimes up to thirty per drawer.  This type of rolled storage within drawers is extremely useful for rolled storage of smaller textiles.  The cabinet format provides protection from light and dust.

There are several methods of rolled storage that can be made within a museum quite economically.

·A simple dowel rack.

In this simple method a frame is constructed and notches, which fit the diameter of aluminum pole dowels, are cut into the side of it.  The dowels are inserted through the textile tubes and inserted into the rack to be suspended horizontally.  Adequate space must be left between the dowels to accommodate the width of the rolled textiles.

·Metal link chain

Another economical and low-technology method of rolled storage employs the use of metal link chain.  Two lengths of chain are hung from the ceiling approximately 4.5 feet apart.  Lengths of aluminum pole dowels are cut to 5 feet in length.  The dowels are then suspended horizontally between the two lengths of chain by attaching them to the chain with U-clamps or automotive muffler clamps.  The clamps should allow the dowels to engage and disengage relatively easily.  The dowels are then inserted through a textile tube and slipped into the clamps.

If this method of hanging storage or the dowel rack storage are used, dust covers of un-bleached, de-sized muslin or cotton should be constructed and used to cover and protect the hanging unit from dust and light.

· Acid-free box storage. Yet another method of bracket suspension for rolled textiles can be created on the interior of acid-free box storage.  Two strips of ethafoam or acid-free foam-core are cut to lie along the inside lengths of the box.  Each strip of ethafoam or foam-core is notched to a size that corresponds to the outside dimensions of the textile tubes to be used.  The ends of the tubes are nestled into the notched ethafoam supports, thereby suspending the textile tubes horizontally.  Several layers of textiles can frequently fit into most textile storage boxes; the layers are held apart from one another by the ethafoam supports.

Preparation of the tubes begins by selecting a tube of the correct diameter.  There are no hard and fast rules, but generally, smaller, thinner textiles can go on smaller, thinner tubes and larger, heavier textiles must go on larger, heavier tubes.  Carpets or tapestries must be rolled on large carpet tubes at the very minimum, and small ribbon yardages or handkerchiefs can usually be rolled onto tubes the diameter of toilet paper tubes.  Keep in mid that rolling most materials causes some curling (compression of the inside surface and expansion of the outside surface) to occur.  The severity and permanence of the distortion is minimized by increasing the size of the diameter of the tube.  Fragile or sensitive materials should always be rolled on a tube of relatively generous diameter.  The length of the tube should be determined by allowing several inches to protrude at either end of the rolled textile.

As mentioned previously, the tubes should be acid-free.  If they are not acid-free, they must be covered with an inert barrier to prevent acid migration from occurring. 

Acidic tubes should be covered with fine 0.5 or 1 millimeter thick polyethylene sheeting, or Mylar.  The Mylar or polyethylene can be secured to the tube without tape by simply rolling it around the tube and tucking the excess of each end into the cavity of the tube itself.  Cover the Mylar or acid-free tube with a layer of unbuffered, acid-free tissue, or unbleached, pre-washed muslin.  Secure the tissue or muslin as mentioned aboveby tucking the edges into the hollow of the tube.

Lay the clean, prepared textile on a clean flat surface.  Set the prepared tube on the end of the textile, aligned with the warp when possible.  Begin rolling with an even tension.  Tension that is too tight will strain and stress the fibers, whereas tension that is too loose will result in sagging and drooping and gravitational stresses.  Loose tension followed by tight tension causes wrinkles and creases to be rolled into the textile and is very damaging.  It is sometimes necessary to re-roll a textile several times before the tension is correct.  Long textiles should be rolled by two people, one at each end.

Interleave all rolled textiles with unbuffered, acid-free tissue, or muslin for heavier textiles.  Areas of deformation in a textile (a stretched out area, for example) can cause difficulty in rolling (creases and wrinkles will tend to develop).  It may be necessary to lightly pad out the deformation with polyester batting or fleece, but pad it only enough to avoid the creases.  Never pack in the padding material tightly or fully.  Roll textiles onto the tube with the right side, or face, inwards.  Exceptions to this are textiles with a raised surface or raised design texture; pile carpets, embroideries and velvets, should all be rolled face or right side out.  If possible, re-roll the textile every six months to one year in the opposite direction so that the innermost edge of the textile is outmost and vice versa.

After the textile is rolled, roll on a few final layers of tissue (or a layer of muslin for the heavier textiles).  The outer layer of tissue will act as a dust cover and light barrier.  In time it may be necessary to replace the tissue (or wash the muslin).

To secure the rolled textile and prevent it from unrolling, cut 1 or 2-ply acid-free matboard into strips long enough to encircle the rolled textile and overlap at the ends.  The strips should be generously wide as well;  approximately 2-3 inches wide for a roll up to 5 inches in diameter, and approximately 4-5 inches wide for large , heavy textile rolls with diameters up to 12 inches and beyond.  Secure the roll by wrapping 2 to5 strips of matboard around the textile at evenly spaced intervals.  Secure the strips of matboard by tying lengths of cotton twill tape around them.  The matboard strips prevent the cotton tape from cinching the roll and cutting into the textile.  Labels can be affixed to the matboard strips or to the sections of tubing not covered by the textile.  As outlined above, textiles rolled in this fashion should be suspended, not stored by stacking them upon shelves or each other.

To summarize:
Select a tube of correct diameter and length
If the tube is not acid-free, cover it appropriately.
Make sure the textile is clean.
Roll the textile with even tension (this could take a few tries).
Interleave textile with unbuffered, acid-free tissue or muslin and pad if necessary.
Roll on a few final layers of tissue or muslin.
Secure the rolled textile with strips of acid-free matboard and cotton twill tape.
Re-roll textiles every six months to one year in the opposite direction.

Kristin Cheronis, Senior Objects Conservator,
The Upper Midwest Conservation Association, May, 1998.